Let’s backtrack and finish off Wednesday.
Sidebar: It’s crazy to me to think that I’ve only been gone since Sunday. Einstein was right.
We left off in Taos, but let me backtrack a bit from that.
As I mentioned in that post, there’s a “low road” and a “high road” between Santa Fe and Taos. It’s generally recommended to take the low road up for more spectacular views and then the high road back for the small town stops on the way. I’m not in Santa Fe right now, but the advice still applies, so I took it.
I reached the Rio Grande Gorge Visitor’s Center, took in the situation and decided that there was another road that looked really interesting and would probably bring me to the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, at which point I could head over to Taos and then back on the high road. Oh, yes, I’m so smart.
So I did this. I turned off the main road at Pilar and meandered up along the river, past campgrounds, until I reached the historic bridge. How interesting. I read about the origins of the bridge, how a camp had been established nearby in the hopes of finding gold, and so on. Some folks were kayaking on the river. I crossed the bridge and started up the winding road, confident that I’d be meeting up with the other road that would take me up to the Gorge bridge.
ROAD CLOSED.
No wonder no one else was on the road. Huh.
All right, so I “wasted” about 30 minutes, but you know how that goes – nothing is wasted. We can learn things along the way. In this case: Don’t be stupid, and maybe once in a while, just do what everyone else is doing.
It was pretty, though. It was.
So up towards Taos, the first stop being the historic in Rancho de Taos. You know this. You recognize this – photographed by Ansel Adams, painted by Georgia O’Keefe, and for clearly good reason. The interior is beautifully preserved, and it’s not a museum. It’s a living parish, clearly.




Into Taos, which is Tourist Central, completely unappealing to me. It must be a nightmare during ski season. I walked around for about ten minutes, stopped in the gift shop run by some Benedictines – a nice shop – and then decided I’d had enough.



Time to hit the high road.
The drive takes you through the Carson National Forest, and the difference in topography and flora from just a couple dozen miles to the west is astonishing. I stopped at a few churches along the way – as I explained yesterday, all were locked, and this time, I’m not mad about it. Given the historic and precarious nature of these structures and – I’ll add – given the number of interesting characters who are commonly seen on all roadsides in this state – it’s not a hard decision to keep these places locked up when they’re not in use.





I am storing up my thoughts on all of this, be assured.
It is amazing to be in a place where you can take in thunderstorms on your left and sunshine on your right.

This cemetery was an absorbing sight to me – full of sunflowers, several freshly-dug graves and unique memorials.


Keep going…to the shrine at Chimayo. We were there on our trip 10 years ago, but why not revisit? It was strangely empty, but perhaps not so strange for a Wednesday in late August. I did not get any dirt, as I still have a little pillbox-type thing full from last time. I was moved, as I always am at such places, by the images of loved ones to pray for or to give thanks for. I was interested in not one, but two areas devoted to Our Lady of Lavang, a devotion with Vietnamese roots.







Upon returning, there was enough daylight for a short hike – this one, not far from my rental. A half mile takes you up to a mesa where a puebla once stood hundreds of years ago. The views, of course, are marvelous, and it’s a gift to be able to take it all in.

And yes, I did get up this morning to see the interior of one of the churches at Mass….
So glad you got to eat at the Rancho de Chimayo; the Chimayo chapel is just such a touchstone for me (with or without the red soil). Thank you for all the pictures. I just got to see the inside of the Rancho de Taos church for the first time a week ago myself, and that was truly a moving experience. Both good places to pray.
I went to college in Santa Fe and my father took our family to Rancho de Chimayo for a celebration dinner at my graduation. Such a nice memory: a good meal and a beautiful drive from Santa Fe. That was 40 years ago. I really appreciate your travel writing and all the church photos. Thank you, Amy.
I think you may have been a little unfair to Taos. Yes, there are plenty of tourists during the season, but there is an underlying culture made up of Anglos, Indians (their preferred nomenclature), and Hispanics. I hope some day you can visit the Pueblo, which has been there for around 5000 years, and see the ancient cemetery, as well as the church there, truly lessons in inculturation. Also, the ski tourists mainly stay up in the Ski Valley, so the town isn’t overrun by them in the water season.I hope you end up in Northern New Mexico!